FAQ
Most frequent questions and answers
On microstepping, we are currently using 16th microstepping and motors with 200 steps per revolution which in combination with our drive sprockets gives us .02mm X and Y resolution. My research has shown that with higher fractional microstepping comes a reduction in available torque and that increased microstepping while providing smoother quieter operation and higher resolution does not significantly increase the accuracy of the printer. For this reason we haven’t looked into dividing our steps further. Perhaps these limitations do not apply to newer drivers. What is the make and model of the drivers your system uses and how does the missed step detection work? Our drivers are Allegro A4988 chips and we use external linear encoder based feedback for skip correction. |
On e3d hot ends, we don’t foresee including those as a standard option since they are already widely available from many sources. We do however encourage modifying the printer to the extent you see fit as part of our mantra “Open Source, Open Frame, Open Mind” and there are many standard upgrade paths that have been documented in the RigidWiki to do just that.
In the Arduino software verify the following under the tools tab at the top:
1. Board: (should select) Arduino/or Genuino Mega or 2560
2. Processor: (should select) ATMega2560 (Mega 2560)
3. Port: Make sure you have a cable connected to the rear printer port and to your computer, then select Tools, then Port and select the COM port that is detected, it should then have a check mark next to it.
If the port is grayed out, then you don’t have a connection to the computer and board. This could be due to a cable issue or locked port. Windows is notorious for not letting go of the ports. The simplest way to fix this is to save your work, shutdown the computer and restart.
#1 Version 15.04.6, do a google search for CURA and then select the “versions” link and scroll down to 15.04.6.
Any modeling software that can export to a stereolithography (.STL) file will work. This means you can use paid modeling software like SolidWorks or AutoCad, or you can use free software like TinkerCad or Google Sketchup with the STL plugin.
The older versions of the Rigidbot firmware have an issue with the buffer getting full after just a few lines of code. This has been fixed in the new firmware versions that can be downloaded from ReliaBuild3d.com/firmware-links/
On built in vs modular socket, we have determined that with correct installation and heat management the built in option offers superior life to little modular driver boards. This is due to the sometimes overlooked fact that most motor driver chips are designed to dump their excess heat into the board through the ground conductor on the bottom of the chip. This puts heat sinks that you add to the top of the chip at an instant disadvantage and placing the chip on a small board significantly limits the area to which the heat can dissipate from the driver chip. We have chosen to stick to the design specifications for area around the chip and board features that draw the heat from the chip into the full board ground plane. As a result our drivers barely get warm and require no forced air for cooling thereby significantly extending their life expectancy.
The firmware is updated regularly and the links on the ReliaBuild3d.com/firmware-links/ website page are always current. Go to that page and then select the link that is for your printer.
Also, if you want to see how to update firmware, you can watch a video on software installs and firmware updates at the following link. https://www.dropbox.com/s/mp94j92ouvfgjgq/RB3%20-%20Part%2014%20Updating%20the%20Firmware.mp4?dl=0
We have a great video that will walk you through leveling the bed located here: https://reliabuild3d.com/support/ It is the first video under the Getting Started and Calibration Link.